Tuesday, December 8, 2009

Adventure in the Windward Islands

I finally have pictures to post! It spans everything from Grenada to Bequia so this may end up being a decent sized post.
I'm starting to adapt to the resources and materials available here, it's obviously very different from the woodlands, and the needs of living in this environment are different too.
I was able to find Jasper in the hills around Tyrrel Bay, though it is some pretty burly stuff, and was difficult to spall. It ranges from almost yellow, to deep reds.
As for cordage, I have found a lot of agave and yucca, but that requires processing which I cannot do on the boat, so I have turned to the Coconut tree for fiber. The fibers inside the dry husks of coconut is surprisingly strong, and produces a decent cordage.

This was on a wall in San Juan, Puerto Rico. Most of the bricks are pitted from the sea air, but this one stood out. Upon closer look, I found it to be a dog track impressed in the brick when still wet, then made perminent when the brick was fired.

Coconuts are of course, everywhere. The trick is being able to get them. This is made particularly difficult when people hammer nails into the sides of the palm.
Anyway, they grow in various stages with each stage being used for something. The water can range from quite sweet to sour, but it's all good and safe to drink, which is helpful on these islands where fresh water springs are sometimes non-existant.
Machetes (also called cutlasses on some islands), are a very useful tool down here, and are extremely common. One local told me that every house must have a machete, speaking to its usefulness. I've seen old women cutting tuna in the fish markets in St. George with large, English made machetes. The two cutlasses Elliot and I were able to purchase in St. George are Brazillian and have already proved quite useful.

The infamous Barracuda. Not nearly as aggressive as I've grown up thinking, they are incredibly common reef predators. The locals eat them regularly, and you have to ask at restaurants before you order fish, or you'll end up eating one of these. That is something to be avoided because they are known carriers of Ciguatera, as are other reef fish. I have eaten it since I've been down here, and it isn't bad, albeit a bit boney. Other fish we have had here are Red Hind and Snapper, which I much prefure.
I'm told the smaller Barracuda are safer, but for the most part we throw these back.

Aloe Vera grows abundantly here, which is fortunate for us people or European decent. The sun here is absolutely merciless at midday, and you really do have to watch your back. Definitely a good plant to have in a survival situation in these islands.

There are many types of lizards here, as well as Iguanas. Some of these types can get quite big, which makes them a possible survival food on the islands.
After anchoring in Chatham Bay, we heard from some locals that there was an abandoned British Fort in the hills around the bay. We were pointed in the direction of a dirt path leading up into the hills, so we set off to find this fort. The whole island used to be heavily defended against American Privateers, so forts seems to be relatively common on the island.
First interesting thing we noticed was as we left the beech behind, we noticed the trees were almost covered in these air plants. They're everywhere, growing on anything with a bare branch.

Some pretty rockey trails at parts, which I walked barefoot. It was like hunting for a lost city, and the trail became so dense in parts we had to use our machete to cut our way through.

Red Footed Tortoises are native to the island, and we found 5 along the trail. They seemed to be hanging out in little groups, which is quite different from the Box Turtles in the US. I'm not sure if the natives ate these, but Elliot says they can get up to a foot in length so it's possible. They were not afraid of us when we picked them up and are quite beautiful.

In some parts the canopy was quite dense, creating these open patches that were quite refreshing to be in.
There are many of these snakes, none of them are venomous. They're also very aware and it was hard to even get a picture of them before they vanished into the leaflitter.

In all reality, Fort Irene is probably on the hill behind me, but we were unable to find it. Should we have had another day in the bay, I would have just bushwacked my way up until I found it, but we weighed anchor later that day and left. I have no idea what kind of fort it was, or what was in it.

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